Experiencing engine overheating is not a fun endeavor for any driver, let alone someone who expects excellence and high quality performance. During warmer seasons of the year, your engine has to work harder to keep the engine temperature at the appropriate level. Especially under these conditions, it can be detrimental to spring a coolant leak. Air forces its way inside the system, creating a pocket of air that prevents coolant flow. A clogged cooling system is usually due to one of a few causes: a malfunctioning thermostat , debris , or natural buildup.
A contaminated cooling system will eventually be unable to circulate the coolant, resulting in an overheating engine. Believe it or not, different cars require different types of coolant. So wasn't sure if it would also be for f I'm at k. So just peace of mind for me. Only thing that doesn't make sense is how quick you said it overheated. Originally Posted by Surly Originally Posted by BurrNinja. Second Lieutenant. Originally Posted by stevem0.
Started the repair tonight, the first of many questions: 1. Any good suggestions how to best separate the tstat housing and the hose from radiator?
The bolt that secures the tstat housing, below the tstat housing. How do you get that bugger back in during install? Just did my thermostat and water pump on my RWD. I ended up removing the radiator fan for more room, and didn't need to remove or lower the sway bar.
And I found using a bit of butter made the hoses slide right on. I was really impressed with how much easier it made reassembly. This was a two week job, once I had all the parts, pump and Tstat Planning on burning up the entire Saturday. Well, the pump off and some BMW Engineer made a whoopsie on his calculation and there was this offset bracket to make sure the water pump would line up with the hoses about 1.
It was just a flat plate with the bolt holes moved. Anyhow, this bracket was cracked, took me a week to get the bracket welded back up. All times are GMT The time now is PM. If this happens, STOP and call a tow truck immediately! Engine overheating Since the cylinder head gasket also seals in the coolant and oil, you may see streaks of oil and coolant streaming down from the gasket. You may also notice a loss of engine power due to lower cylinder compression if the head gasket leaks to adjacent cylinders.
The engine management systems are that good. They will detect an overheat and display a warning. They are also a bugger to bleed, as mentioned. When you say the heater does not work at all, I take it you mean it never blows hot air, not that the blower does not work?
TheEnd 15, posts months. A stuck shut thermostat won't stop the heater from getting hot inside. It just decided between short loop block and heater matrix and long loop block, matrix and rad Keep a close eye on coolant levels to see if they move, it does follow an airlock pattern, and you can get airlocks when the heater matrix valve isn't open during bleeding, or if it can't open.
The thermostat is usually on the return lower hose, so the easiest way to diagnose is the fact that the return hose will be cool and the top hose will be hot and probably rock-hard.
Cheers for the suggestions. I am not sure if the thermostat ahs been replaced, I will get them to check that first thing. And look into the airlock. Try my method of beeding the engine I have never had issues with my or Put the car up on ramps helps the water fall back into the heater matrix and makes the rad slightly higher Set the cabin temp to max to open the valves.
Turn ign on to get the electric water pump running if fitted Im sure m52 engines have the pump remove both bleed screws stat and rad Start filling with water slowly. Close bleed screws when water stars to come out when water starts comming out the overflow pipe in the neck of the coolant tank leave it for a few mins opening and closing the bleed screws to get rid of any air and once satisfied run the engine.
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